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Your plane can fly straight in
any attitude
Thanks to Peter Goldsmith
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Insure
that controls are centered, surfaces are straight, and that throws are
appropriate. Select the prop
you will use. If you must
change props, start over.
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Trim
for straight and level flight at mid to 2/3 throttle.
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Check
for proper CG by pulling to a 45 degree upline at full throttle.
Roll the plane over on its back and release the sticks.
It should make a slow arc toward the ground.
If it arcs too fast, it is nose heavy, and if it goes straight or
climbs, it is tail heavy. Adjust
the CG, re-trim (#2) and repeat #3 until it is correct. A second way to test for CG is to fly inverted and see
how much push it takes to maintain level flight. Too much push can be corrected by moving the CG aft, and
too little requires moving the CG foreword.
Most pilots prefer 1/8 to 1/4 inch of stick push inverted, but that
is a matter of feel.
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Check
for a heavy wing by flying high and pushing to a vertical downline at low
throttle. When the speed is
high pull sharply to horizontal. (Pull
high enough to recover if it snaps.) If
one wing is heavy, it will drop. Land and add weight to the other wing until even a sharp
corner does not cause a wing to drop. Coins
and tape work well for temporary weight.
This test is surprisingly sensitive.
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In
level flight, advance the throttle to full.
If the plane climbs, add down thrust.
If it dives, add up thrust.
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Check
for corkscrew in both outside and inside loops by flying directly away and
pull or push multiple loops. Be
sure that the wings are level. If
the plane corkscrews one way or the other, correct with an opposite
elevator/rudder mix.
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Most
aerobatic planes yaw left on vertical uplines due to the effect of the prop
tornado on the rudder. This can
be corrected with right thrust of the engine or high throttle to right
rudder mix in the transmitter. Fly
the plane straight up at full throttle and watch to see if it yaws.
Adjust the right thrust and/or throttle/rudder mix until the plane
climbs straight. A combination
of these two adjustments works, too.
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All
symmetrical airfoil planes will pull out on down lines, because neutral in
level flight must have a slight angle of attack. To correct this, use a
slight down throttle/down elevator mix (1-4% usually) and repeat low
throttle down lines until the plane tracks straight down without control
inputs. You will notice no difference on landings.
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A
plane that rolls in knife edge will roll right and left at different rates.
Also, point rolls will not hesitate cleanly.
Put the plane in knife edge and observe if it tends to roll to canopy
or wheels. Correct this
tendency with a rudder/aileron mix. Do
one side at a time.
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If
the plane pitches in knife edge, rolls and point rolls will corkscrew.
Put the plane in knife edge and observe if it pitches to canopy or
wheels. Correct this tendency
with a rudder/elevator mix. Do
one side at a time.
HINTS: These
tuning steps must be done in this order. A
change in any step setting, will change all following steps.
This process can be greatly accelerated if your transmitter can be
programmed in flight. An assistant
will be necessary. Not all planes
will need all these trims and mixes, but most will.
A 7CAP transmitter or equivalent can do all these mixes.
Use the 3 available mixes on steps 6, 8 and 9.
Calm conditions are necessary for these tests.
Take your time on steps 2, 3 and 4.
15 flights at least. Think
of this process as part of the building cycle.
I find it the most fun part because I can see my planes improve daily and
my maneuvers improve. Any size
aerobat from electric flat wing foamys to 40% IMAC planes will benefit from this
process. You will get faster with
each plane you trim and your understanding of aerodynamics will take off. (pun intended) It
will surprise you how much a properly tuned plane makes all aerobatics easier
and you will hate to fly planes that don’t fly straight. If you run into trouble, call Jim Brink or Jerry Craig.
Good luck and have fun.
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